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* Preparation and Cost
- Get all the parts / raw material
- - For the 3D printing there are two options:
- 1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
- which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
- printer you have available.
- 2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here
- http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations
- - Decide on the switches
- - If you are going to invest a whole lot of time and money for a custom keyboard instead of
- buying one for 10€ I'd recommend to use your favorite switch-type. To make a
- well-informed decision I bought a switch-tester for this from massdrop and decided on
- Cherry MX Whites. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-switch-tester-with-anodized-case
- - I ordered 70 Cherry MX Whites from here:
- https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=847
- - Decide on the key caps
- - On the glamour-Shot you can see the 1976 keycap set, it used to be sold over here:
- http://pimpmykeyboard.com/sa-1976-keycap-set/ but the link is dead right now. You could
- try this link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/nineteenseventysix-sa-keycap-set but it is a
- massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells
- these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout
- - I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here:
- http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys
- short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use
- left-over.
- - The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer
- - It's an USB 2.0 to USB Mini-B cable, make sure you get one that is 2 meters long, it
- really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable
- - https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/
- - The main controller (right half)
- - A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html
- - The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half
- - TTRS cable and jacks
- - Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND
- - Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND
- - MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander
- - Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND
-
- What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build):
- | item | cost |
- |-----------------------------------+------|
- | filament | 70 |
- | switch-tester | 30 |
- | key-caps | 70 |
- | teensy 2.0 | 30 |
- | switches | 60 |
- | usb cable | 10 |
- | IO Expander, TTRS jacks and cable | 30 |
- |-----------------------------------+------|
- | overall cost | 300 |
- #+TBLFM: @9$2=vsum(@2$2..@8$2)
-
- My choices / advantages:
- - Using the soldering iron at the uni-workshop for free
- - 76 Diodes for free
- - Soldering wire and copper for free
- - All the resistors used for free (5 resistors are used)
- - Several files for working out the rough edges of the 3D-printout
-
- Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however
- is a good rough estimate.
-
- After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section
+ Get all the parts / raw material
+ - For the 3D printing there are two options:
+ 1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
+ which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
+ printer you have available.
+ 2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here
+ http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations
+ - Decide on the switches
+ - If you are going to invest a whole lot of time and money for a custom keyboard instead of
+ buying one for 10€ I'd recommend to use your favorite switch-type. To make a
+ well-informed decision I bought a switch-tester for this from massdrop and decided on
+ Cherry MX Whites. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-switch-tester-with-anodized-case
+ - I ordered 70 Cherry MX Whites from here:
+ https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=847
+ - Decide on the key caps
+ - On the glamour-Shot you can see the 1976 keycap set, it used to be sold over here:
+ http://pimpmykeyboard.com/sa-1976-keycap-set/ but the link is dead right now. You could
+ try this link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/nineteenseventysix-sa-keycap-set but it is a
+ massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells
+ these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout
+ - I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here:
+ http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys
+ short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use
+ left-over.
+ - The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer
+ - It's an USB 2.0 to USB Mini-B cable, make sure you get one that is 2 meters long, it
+ really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable
+ - https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/
+ - The main controller (right half)
+ - A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html
+ - The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half
+ - TTRS cable and jacks
+ - Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND
+ - Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND
+ - MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander
+ - Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND
+
+ What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build):
+ | item | cost |
+ |-----------------------------------+------|
+ | filament | 70 |
+ | switch-tester | 30 |
+ | key-caps | 70 |
+ | teensy 2.0 | 30 |
+ | switches | 60 |
+ | usb cable | 10 |
+ | IO Expander, TTRS jacks and cable | 30 |
+ |-----------------------------------+------|
+ | overall cost | 300 |
+ #+TBLFM: @9$2=vsum(@2$2..@8$2)
+
+ My choices / advantages:
+ - Using the soldering iron at the uni-workshop for free
+ - 76 Diodes for free
+ - Soldering wire and copper for free
+ - All the resistors used for free (5 resistors are used)
+ - Several files for working out the rough edges of the 3D-printout
+
+ Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however
+ is a good rough estimate.
+
+ After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section.
* Wiring
+ It is assumed that you have printed the casing successfully, I had alot of help for this so I'm
+ not going into advice on 3D printing here.
+
1) Plug the switches into the Casing, no glue is needed, the casing provides the perfect fit.
2) Put the keycaps on the switches
+ - Note that in the pictures here some of the long keys on the thumb-part are too short,
+ that's why it doesnt look symmetrical
- [[file:switches_still_in_bag.jpg]]
-
- [[file:]]switches_applied_to_casing.jpg
+ [[file:application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg]]
Now going further on in the guide there are two options
1. The first option is to print flexible PCBs. The advantage is that you save alot of wiring
@@ -86,12 +89,12 @@
2. rewiring to adapt to what the firmware expects, which may easily double your work here
- [[Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide]]
2. The second option is to hand-wire everything. For people like me who had never soldered before
- this was great joy and pleasure.
+ this was great pain and pleasure.
- Here too firmware and wiring go hand in hand, you pretty much have to have a detailed look
at the firmware you are using before wiring anything. I provide my modification of the
"ergodox-firmware" over here: https://github.com/BubblesToTheLimit/ergodox-firmware
- - Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to the
- first guide there is a whole lot more of information.
+ - Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to
+ option one there is a whole lot more of information.
- [[Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide]]
** Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide
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