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-rw-r--r--guide/README.org124
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diff --git a/guide/README.org b/guide/README.org
index 2814cf9..5703925 100644
--- a/guide/README.org
+++ b/guide/README.org
@@ -2,7 +2,8 @@
Get all the parts / raw material
- For the 3D printing there are two options:
1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place
- which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€
+ which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D
+ printer you have available.
2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here
http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations
- Decide on the switches
@@ -19,7 +20,7 @@
massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells
these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout
- I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here:
- http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still too long keys
+ http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys
short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use
left-over.
- The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer
@@ -27,12 +28,12 @@
really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable
- https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/
- The main controller (right half)
- - A Teensy 2.0, i got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html
+ - A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html
- The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half
- TTRS cable and jacks
- Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND
- Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND
- - MCP23018 16 bitIO Expander
+ - MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander
- Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND
What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build):
@@ -59,60 +60,99 @@
Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however
is a good rough estimate.
-* Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide
+ After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section
-[[workbench.jpg]]
-For now, take a look at the images and try to figure things out, I know
-that's not great (it's better than nothing!)
+* Wiring
+ 1) Plug the switches into the Casing, no glue is needed, the casing provides the perfect fit.
+ 2) Put the keycaps on the switches
-** Making the PCB
+ [[file:switches_still_in_bag.jpg]]
-Get two sheets of 6in square Pyralux™. Use the Toner Transfer method to
-etch the Pyralux sheets as you would a usual PCB
+ [[file:]]switches_applied_to_casing.jpg
-#+BEGIN_QUOTE
- NOTE: If you only have an Inkjet make photocopies of the print out,
- voilà Toner based copies!
-#+END_QUOTE
+ Now going further on in the guide there are two options
+ 1. The first option is to print flexible PCBs. The advantage is that you save alot of wiring
+ business, everything looks rather clean and you dont have to worry about your cables being too
+ thick such that the casing doesnt close. However if you don't have the means to print out such
+ PCBs there is the second option, hand-wiring everything by hand.
+ - The guide for this is very rough indeed and it doesnt include the firmware used. Wiring and
+ firmware play extremely close together, wiring before knowing your firmware is like buying a
+ shoe without measuring your feet before. For this option information about the exact
+ firmware is not published, this in addition to the fact that the pictures in this rough
+ guide are incomplete makes this option extremely beginner-unfriendly. Going in blind-sided
+ like this may lead to one of these things:
+ 1. reprogramming huge parts of the firmware to match your wiring which comes with a ton of
+ debugging
+ 2. rewiring to adapt to what the firmware expects, which may easily double your work here
+ - [[Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide]]
+ 2. The second option is to hand-wire everything. For people like me who had never soldered before
+ this was great joy and pleasure.
+ - Here too firmware and wiring go hand in hand, you pretty much have to have a detailed look
+ at the firmware you are using before wiring anything. I provide my modification of the
+ "ergodox-firmware" over here: https://github.com/BubblesToTheLimit/ergodox-firmware
+ - Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to the
+ first guide there is a whole lot more of information.
+ - [[Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide]]
-[[http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/][Here'sa handy toner transfer guide ...]]
+** Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide
+ [[workbench.jpg]]
-Print these PCB designs out...
+ For now, take a look at the images and try to figure things out, I know that's not great (it's
+ better than nothing!)
-Left hand:
-[[left-hand-pcb-pyralux.png]]
+*** Making the PCB
+ Get two sheets of 6in square Pyralux™. Use the Toner Transfer method to etch the Pyralux sheets as
+ you would a usual PCB
-Right hand:
-[[right-hand-pcb-pyralux.png]]
+ #+BEGIN_QUOTE
+ NOTE: If you only have an Inkjet make photocopies of the print out,
+ voilà Toner based copies!
+ #+END_QUOTE
-When you're done etching, you'll need to carefully cut the pcb into
-pieces... See the images below.
+ [[http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/][Here'sa handy toner transfer guide ...]]
-** This is Madness...
+ Print these PCB designs out...
-The thumb cluster pcb for the left hand:
-[[madness.jpg]]
+ Left hand:
-Solder the MCP like so:
-[[left-hand-mcp-1.jpg]]
-[[left-hand-mcp-2.jpg]]
+ [[left-hand-pcb-pyralux.png]]
-Solder the Teensy 2.0 like so:
-[[teensy-1.jpg]]
+ Right hand:
-Some interesting pull up 10k resistor business here... (TODO add a small
-diagram and notes)
+ [[right-hand-pcb-pyralux.png]]
-[[teensy-2-fuxor-reziztorrs.jpg]]
+ When you're done etching, you'll need to carefully cut the pcb into pieces... See the images
+ below.
-Each hand of the keyboard will wire up like so:
-[[right-hand-pcb-1.jpg]]
+*** Applying the PCB to the electronical parts
+ The thumb cluster pcb for the left hand:
-Teensy goes here... note the rows soldered to the teensy via the
-Pyralux:
-[[right-hand-pcb-with-teensy.jpg]]
+ [[madness.jpg]]
-Here the left hand:
-[[hotglue-left-hand.jpg]]
+ Solder the MCP like so:
-That's all for now, this guide will improve over time! (TODO!)
+ [[left-hand-mcp-1.jpg]]
+ [[left-hand-mcp-2.jpg]]
+
+ Solder the Teensy 2.0 like so:
+
+ [[teensy-1.jpg]]
+
+ Some interesting pull up 10k resistor business here... (TODO add a small diagram and notes)
+
+ [[teensy-2-fuxor-reziztorrs.jpg]]
+
+ Each hand of the keyboard will wire up like so:
+
+ [[right-hand-pcb-1.jpg]]
+
+ Teensy goes here... note the rows soldered to the teensy via the Pyralux:
+
+ [[right-hand-pcb-with-teensy.jpg]]
+
+ Here the left hand:
+
+ [[hotglue-left-hand.jpg]]
+
+ That's all for now, this guide will improve over time! (TODO!)
+** Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide
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