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diff --git a/guide/README.org b/guide/README.org index 5703925..e657d83 100644 --- a/guide/README.org +++ b/guide/README.org @@ -1,74 +1,77 @@ * Preparation and Cost - Get all the parts / raw material - - For the 3D printing there are two options: - 1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place - which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D - printer you have available. - 2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here - http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations - - Decide on the switches - - If you are going to invest a whole lot of time and money for a custom keyboard instead of - buying one for 10€ I'd recommend to use your favorite switch-type. To make a - well-informed decision I bought a switch-tester for this from massdrop and decided on - Cherry MX Whites. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-switch-tester-with-anodized-case - - I ordered 70 Cherry MX Whites from here: - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=847 - - Decide on the key caps - - On the glamour-Shot you can see the 1976 keycap set, it used to be sold over here: - http://pimpmykeyboard.com/sa-1976-keycap-set/ but the link is dead right now. You could - try this link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/nineteenseventysix-sa-keycap-set but it is a - massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells - these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout - - I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here: - http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys - short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use - left-over. - - The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer - - It's an USB 2.0 to USB Mini-B cable, make sure you get one that is 2 meters long, it - really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable - - https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/ - - The main controller (right half) - - A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html - - The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half - - TTRS cable and jacks - - Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND - - Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND - - MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander - - Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND - - What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build): - | item | cost | - |-----------------------------------+------| - | filament | 70 | - | switch-tester | 30 | - | key-caps | 70 | - | teensy 2.0 | 30 | - | switches | 60 | - | usb cable | 10 | - | IO Expander, TTRS jacks and cable | 30 | - |-----------------------------------+------| - | overall cost | 300 | - #+TBLFM: @9$2=vsum(@2$2..@8$2) - - My choices / advantages: - - Using the soldering iron at the uni-workshop for free - - 76 Diodes for free - - Soldering wire and copper for free - - All the resistors used for free (5 resistors are used) - - Several files for working out the rough edges of the 3D-printout - - Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however - is a good rough estimate. - - After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section + Get all the parts / raw material + - For the 3D printing there are two options: + 1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place + which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D + printer you have available. + 2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here + http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations + - Decide on the switches + - If you are going to invest a whole lot of time and money for a custom keyboard instead of + buying one for 10€ I'd recommend to use your favorite switch-type. To make a + well-informed decision I bought a switch-tester for this from massdrop and decided on + Cherry MX Whites. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-switch-tester-with-anodized-case + - I ordered 70 Cherry MX Whites from here: + https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=847 + - Decide on the key caps + - On the glamour-Shot you can see the 1976 keycap set, it used to be sold over here: + http://pimpmykeyboard.com/sa-1976-keycap-set/ but the link is dead right now. You could + try this link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/nineteenseventysix-sa-keycap-set but it is a + massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells + these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout + - I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here: + http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys + short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use + left-over. + - The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer + - It's an USB 2.0 to USB Mini-B cable, make sure you get one that is 2 meters long, it + really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable + - https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/ + - The main controller (right half) + - A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html + - The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half + - TTRS cable and jacks + - Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND + - Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND + - MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander + - Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND + + What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build): + | item | cost | + |-----------------------------------+------| + | filament | 70 | + | switch-tester | 30 | + | key-caps | 70 | + | teensy 2.0 | 30 | + | switches | 60 | + | usb cable | 10 | + | IO Expander, TTRS jacks and cable | 30 | + |-----------------------------------+------| + | overall cost | 300 | + #+TBLFM: @9$2=vsum(@2$2..@8$2) + + My choices / advantages: + - Using the soldering iron at the uni-workshop for free + - 76 Diodes for free + - Soldering wire and copper for free + - All the resistors used for free (5 resistors are used) + - Several files for working out the rough edges of the 3D-printout + + Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however + is a good rough estimate. + + After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section. * Wiring + It is assumed that you have printed the casing successfully, I had alot of help for this so I'm + not going into advice on 3D printing here. + 1) Plug the switches into the Casing, no glue is needed, the casing provides the perfect fit. 2) Put the keycaps on the switches + - Note that in the pictures here some of the long keys on the thumb-part are too short, + that's why it doesnt look symmetrical - [[file:switches_still_in_bag.jpg]] - - [[file:]]switches_applied_to_casing.jpg + [[file:application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg]] Now going further on in the guide there are two options 1. The first option is to print flexible PCBs. The advantage is that you save alot of wiring @@ -86,12 +89,12 @@ 2. rewiring to adapt to what the firmware expects, which may easily double your work here - [[Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide]] 2. The second option is to hand-wire everything. For people like me who had never soldered before - this was great joy and pleasure. + this was great pain and pleasure. - Here too firmware and wiring go hand in hand, you pretty much have to have a detailed look at the firmware you are using before wiring anything. I provide my modification of the "ergodox-firmware" over here: https://github.com/BubblesToTheLimit/ergodox-firmware - - Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to the - first guide there is a whole lot more of information. + - Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to + option one there is a whole lot more of information. - [[Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide]] ** Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide diff --git a/guide/application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg b/guide/application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e2a7a7f --- /dev/null +++ b/guide/application-of-switches-and-caps.jpg diff --git a/guide/switches_applied_to_casing.jpg b/guide/switches_applied_to_casing.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3b12774..0000000 --- a/guide/switches_applied_to_casing.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/guide/switches_still_in_bag.jpg b/guide/switches_still_in_bag.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index c01a778..0000000 --- a/guide/switches_still_in_bag.jpg +++ /dev/null |
