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diff --git a/guide/README.org b/guide/README.org index 2814cf9..5703925 100644 --- a/guide/README.org +++ b/guide/README.org @@ -2,7 +2,8 @@ Get all the parts / raw material - For the 3D printing there are two options: 1. Filament, which is the basis for 3D printing. Luckily I could print at my work-place - which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€ + which reduced the cost from 210€ to 70€. The kind of filament you need depends on the 3D + printer you have available. 2. Buy the printout of adareth's model at shapeways for 210€ over here http://www.shapeways.com/designer/adereth/creations - Decide on the switches @@ -19,7 +20,7 @@ massdrop which is way different from usual online-stores. If you find a site that sells these make sure you get the right amount and type of keys according to the layout - I got the "TKL Base Set + TKL Modifier" from over here: - http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still too long keys + http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/ but I'm still two long keys short, I will have to order those specifically and I have a bunch of keys I don't use left-over. - The USB-Cable that connects the keyboard to your computer @@ -27,12 +28,12 @@ really makes handling the keyboard so much more comfortable - https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11N5A/ - The main controller (right half) - - A Teensy 2.0, i got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html + - A Teensy 2.0, I got that one from here: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy.html - The chip, connectors and cable to give life to the left half - TTRS cable and jacks - Got my TTRS cable from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=839-1257-ND - Got my TTRS jacks from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=CP-43514-ND - - MCP23018 16 bitIO Expander + - MCP23018 16 bit IO Expander - Got mine from here: http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?keywords=MCP23018-E%2FSP-ND What I spend on my keyboard (should give you a rough estimate for your build): @@ -59,60 +60,99 @@ Depending on what you have available you might spend more or less money than me, 300€ however is a good rough estimate. -* Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide + After all the parts have arrived it is safe to move on to the next section -[[workbench.jpg]] -For now, take a look at the images and try to figure things out, I know -that's not great (it's better than nothing!) +* Wiring + 1) Plug the switches into the Casing, no glue is needed, the casing provides the perfect fit. + 2) Put the keycaps on the switches -** Making the PCB + [[file:switches_still_in_bag.jpg]] -Get two sheets of 6in square Pyralux™. Use the Toner Transfer method to -etch the Pyralux sheets as you would a usual PCB + [[file:]]switches_applied_to_casing.jpg -#+BEGIN_QUOTE - NOTE: If you only have an Inkjet make photocopies of the print out, - voilà Toner based copies! -#+END_QUOTE + Now going further on in the guide there are two options + 1. The first option is to print flexible PCBs. The advantage is that you save alot of wiring + business, everything looks rather clean and you dont have to worry about your cables being too + thick such that the casing doesnt close. However if you don't have the means to print out such + PCBs there is the second option, hand-wiring everything by hand. + - The guide for this is very rough indeed and it doesnt include the firmware used. Wiring and + firmware play extremely close together, wiring before knowing your firmware is like buying a + shoe without measuring your feet before. For this option information about the exact + firmware is not published, this in addition to the fact that the pictures in this rough + guide are incomplete makes this option extremely beginner-unfriendly. Going in blind-sided + like this may lead to one of these things: + 1. reprogramming huge parts of the firmware to match your wiring which comes with a ton of + debugging + 2. rewiring to adapt to what the firmware expects, which may easily double your work here + - [[Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide]] + 2. The second option is to hand-wire everything. For people like me who had never soldered before + this was great joy and pleasure. + - Here too firmware and wiring go hand in hand, you pretty much have to have a detailed look + at the firmware you are using before wiring anything. I provide my modification of the + "ergodox-firmware" over here: https://github.com/BubblesToTheLimit/ergodox-firmware + - Some of the steps of this guide may not be described in much detail, but in contrast to the + first guide there is a whole lot more of information. + - [[Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide]] -[[http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/][Here'sa handy toner transfer guide ...]] +** Route 1: Dactyl Flexible PCB Rough Guide + [[workbench.jpg]] -Print these PCB designs out... + For now, take a look at the images and try to figure things out, I know that's not great (it's + better than nothing!) -Left hand: -[[left-hand-pcb-pyralux.png]] +*** Making the PCB + Get two sheets of 6in square Pyralux™. Use the Toner Transfer method to etch the Pyralux sheets as + you would a usual PCB -Right hand: -[[right-hand-pcb-pyralux.png]] + #+BEGIN_QUOTE + NOTE: If you only have an Inkjet make photocopies of the print out, + voilà Toner based copies! + #+END_QUOTE -When you're done etching, you'll need to carefully cut the pcb into -pieces... See the images below. + [[http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/][Here'sa handy toner transfer guide ...]] -** This is Madness... + Print these PCB designs out... -The thumb cluster pcb for the left hand: -[[madness.jpg]] + Left hand: -Solder the MCP like so: -[[left-hand-mcp-1.jpg]] -[[left-hand-mcp-2.jpg]] + [[left-hand-pcb-pyralux.png]] -Solder the Teensy 2.0 like so: -[[teensy-1.jpg]] + Right hand: -Some interesting pull up 10k resistor business here... (TODO add a small -diagram and notes) + [[right-hand-pcb-pyralux.png]] -[[teensy-2-fuxor-reziztorrs.jpg]] + When you're done etching, you'll need to carefully cut the pcb into pieces... See the images + below. -Each hand of the keyboard will wire up like so: -[[right-hand-pcb-1.jpg]] +*** Applying the PCB to the electronical parts + The thumb cluster pcb for the left hand: -Teensy goes here... note the rows soldered to the teensy via the -Pyralux: -[[right-hand-pcb-with-teensy.jpg]] + [[madness.jpg]] -Here the left hand: -[[hotglue-left-hand.jpg]] + Solder the MCP like so: -That's all for now, this guide will improve over time! (TODO!) + [[left-hand-mcp-1.jpg]] + [[left-hand-mcp-2.jpg]] + + Solder the Teensy 2.0 like so: + + [[teensy-1.jpg]] + + Some interesting pull up 10k resistor business here... (TODO add a small diagram and notes) + + [[teensy-2-fuxor-reziztorrs.jpg]] + + Each hand of the keyboard will wire up like so: + + [[right-hand-pcb-1.jpg]] + + Teensy goes here... note the rows soldered to the teensy via the Pyralux: + + [[right-hand-pcb-with-teensy.jpg]] + + Here the left hand: + + [[hotglue-left-hand.jpg]] + + That's all for now, this guide will improve over time! (TODO!) +** Route 2: Dactyl Hand-Wiring Guide diff --git a/guide/switches_applied_to_casing.jpg b/guide/switches_applied_to_casing.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3b12774 --- /dev/null +++ b/guide/switches_applied_to_casing.jpg diff --git a/guide/switches_still_in_bag.jpg b/guide/switches_still_in_bag.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c01a778 --- /dev/null +++ b/guide/switches_still_in_bag.jpg |
